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The 'cultural appropriation' of traditional textiles from Mexico : an analysis of 3 case studies
(2023)
This doctoral thesis intended to examine the phenomenon of ‘cultural appropriation’ of traditional textiles from Mexico through an analysis of 3 case studies. This research had the objective of understanding the phenomenon through the relationships, perspectives, and discourses of the social actors involved, by following the development of controversies involving different objects of material culture from different communities: the xaam nïxuy Ayuujk (Mixe) blouse from Santa Maria Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca; the Hñuhú and Hñahñ (Otomi) “Tenango” embroideries from the communities of Tenago de Doria and San Nicolas in Hidalgo; and the mestizo gabanes from Santa Clara del Cobre and Nahuatzen in the State of Michoacán.
This doctoral examination was sustained through theoretical approximations that located the occurrences within transnational/ transcultural processes, engaging with qualitative methodologies and multi-sited ethnographies in order to obtain data that elucidated on the diversity of objects, actors, relationships, understandings, perceptions, values, and discourses involved in the ‘cultural appropriation’ of traditional textiles controversies in the country.
The content analysis of this doctoral research dissected a number of different processes, effects, and consequences of the phenomenon as it developed in dissimilar locations and periods of time. The examination revealed a complex intersection of meanings, productions, circulations, and consumptions of culture, that simultaneously affected cultural meanings, relationships, and processes, raising concerns over the management of traditional textiles as objects of cultural heritage, and the unviability of protecting communal creative domains through national legal mechanisms.